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CHANGING A KITCHEN TAP

Changing A Kitchen Tap

Upgrading Or Replacing A Kitchen Tap

Changing a kitchen tap…. Firstly, these instructions are only intended for competent DIY’ers, we would always recommend using a professional if you are in anyway unsure.

Should you choose to install a kitchen tap yourself, whether that be purchased from our online store or elsewhere, its important to make sure you have the correct tools to ensure the very best results.

Check out our guide to installing a kitchen tap below:

Your New Kitchen Tap

Today we are going to look at the installation process for monobloc, single lever kitchen taps as these are generally the most popular and most widely available.

If you are trying to install a tap with separate hot and cold valves the process is similar, however you’ll need to refer to your tap manufacturers instructions for the specifics.

Tools That You'll Need

In order to complete your installation you’ll need a selection of tools.

If you don’t have these then they are readily available from all good tool and DIY stores.

We are going to assume for the purpose of this how-to that your existing water supplies are fitted with individual isolation valves. If you current pipework doesn’t have individual isolators then we recommend that seek professional help.

For this installation you’ll need: 

  • Adjustable Spanner
  • Screwdriver Set
  • Grips & Pliers
  • Thread Seal/PTFE Tape

 

If your installation is more complex, you may also require: 

  • Basin Wrench
  • Pipe Cutters
  • Hacksaw or Olive Splitters
  • Various Spanners or Socket Set

Removing Your Exisiting Kitchen Tap

As previously mentioned, we are going to assume that you are installing a monobloc, single lever kitchen tap with pipework that is fitted with individual isolation valves on the hot and cold feed.

STEP 1

Firstly, locate your home’s shut off valve/stopcock and turn off the water supply.

STEP 2

Now using the isolating valves, use a screwdriver or turn the valve handle to the off position. 

STEP 3

Turn on your kitchen tap to run through and residual water from the pipework/tap. Once the flow stops you can turn the tap off.

STEP 4

Clear out the area under your sink and have an old towel and receptacle for catching water drips ready.

STEP 5

Now carefully disconnect your hot and cold water feeds (you’ll most likely get some water drips). You can do this with one to two spanners dependent on existing fittings.

STEP 6

Again, dependent on the fittings, you may then need to remove the pipework olive. Be careful not to damage the existing pipework.

STEP 7

With the water feeds now disconnected you can undo the securing nut/plate that is located on the underside of the worksurface/drainer, below your existing kitchen tap. You’ll likely need to use a combination of screwdrivers, spanners and/or socket set to do this.

STEP 8

Once you’ve completes step 7 you’ll be able to remove the existing tap. Be careful when doing this as if, for example your tap has been installed for a number of years, it might be quite tightly held in place. 

Checked Non Return Or Single Check Valves

This is something for you to consider and to seek advice on if need be – if you are in anyway unsure, please seek professional help.

When you are mixing both a hot and cold feed in a tap, you may need to ensure that you have a suitable checked non-return valve fitted to both the hot and cold feed. These valves are designed to stop the cold water from running back through the hot water feed when both supplies are in use together.

These valves need to be fitted before the flexible tap connections with the arrows pointing upwards.

Image credit: James French

Fitting Your New Kitchen Tap

STEP 1

Carefully remove your tap from its packaging making sure to safely set aside the fitting kit and instructions – You will find, in the most part, that the tap will be more or less assembled out of the box.

Read through the instructions thoroughly before commencing installation.

STEP 2

Where necessary, screw the flexible tap hoses into the base of the tap body. If you have been supplied with copper pipe, please follow the instruction given by your tap manufacturer.

STEP 3

Gently pass the flexible braided hoses down through the deck hole in either your drainer or worksurface. Please note, if fitting taps like ours to a drainer, suitable bracing and reinforcement will be required due to the weight and physicality of our products.

Once your hoses are in position and not twisted or kinked, follow the instructions for the fitting kit ensuring that your kitchen tap is firmly held in place. Typically you will use a combinations of screwdrivers, spanners and/or a socket set to secure the required washers, securing plate and locking nuts (where applicable). All of this work is carried out from underneath the tap so that you don’t see the fixings.

STEP 4

As mentioned earlier, if you are installing a heavy guage tap to a drainer this is best done with a tap brace which provides added stability – if you are in anyway unsure, please seek professional help.

STEP 5

Now you can reconnect the corresponding hot and cold water feeds to the flexible tap hoses. This is typically carried out by using one, or two, spanners to tighten up a compression fitting. Do not over tighten your fittings as you may damage the threads or copper piping to which they are being fitted to.

If you are installing rigid copper pipe fittings, care must be taken to seal the joints properly with jointing compound.

STEP 6

With everything now in place, you can turn the water back on, leaving the isolating valves closed – check for leaks.

Make sure that your new tap is switched off, now open the cold water isolation valve – check for leaks.

Now do the same with you hot water isolation valve.

Once you’re happy that you have no leaks, turn the tap on and allow the water to flow into the sink. Test the mixer function by selecting different hot/cold positions on the lever.

If you have no leaks and the water is mixing correctly, you are done.

If you do discover a leak, don’t panic, turn off the main water valve/stopcock and isolation valves. You’ll need to work your way through the pipework to resolve the issue or contact a professional.

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